Jeju Naval Base Controversy

Since I recently spent some time on Jeju the news of a military base being built on the island perked my interest. However, I am not to sure what is happening so I took the time to read up on the issue. From the gist of it I believe that the South Korean Navy has been building a naval base on Jeju within the city of Gangjeong. The function of such a site is summed up clearly in a New York Times article:

Once completed in 2014, it will be home to 20 warships, including submarines, that the navy says will protect shipping lanes for South Korea’s export-driven economy, which is dependent on imported oil. It will also enable South Korea to respond quickly to a brewing territorial dispute with China over Socotra Rock, a submerged reef south of Jeju that the Koreans call Ieodo. Both sides believe it is surrounded by oil and mineral deposits.

What has ended up happening is the people of this "village", about 1,000, are divided over whether it should be there or not. So much so that heated protesting has occurred and people are starting to avoid each other, some not even shopping at the same stores. What impacts me the most is hearing that those against the naval base say it will endanger the natural environment. To me that is very important and most land in Jeju and on the peninsula is constantly being taken up by new cities of concrete.

However, what is most heartening is hearing about the varied protests and arrests occurring. When I turn on my TV the news channel shows people lying on the streets or chained to each other. The newspaper "Jeju Weekly" highlights recent protests with photos and stories. But if you really want to get the full scale ideal of the protestors than the site "Save Jeju" serves up a mouth full.

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Maybe the whole idea is that people just don't want symbols of war on their island, because of such a terrible past. Save Jeju:

Jeju was the site of a 1948 massacre in which more than 30,000 civilians were estimated to have been slaughtered during a democratic uprising

 New York Times:

“I don’t understand why we’re trying so hard to accommodate something people in Okinawa tried so hard to resist,” said Kim Jong-hwan, 55, a tangerine farmer, referring to the Japanese islanders’ struggle against the American military base there. “When I think how the Americans go around the world starting wars, I can only expect the worst.”

Perhaps the other aspect, of this being a China and America thing, that tilts the scales of peace too far.

New York Times:

Song Kang-ho, an activist against the base, disagreed. “With the U.S. economy in a mess, it’s just a matter of time before China dominates Northeast Asia,” Mr. Song said. “We should keep neutral between the rising and declining superpowers.”  

In the end, I just hope people don't get hurt or killed trying to protect the land and that a resolution comes that respects both sides. However, this sentiment encapsulates what just might sway the vote:

"Speaking about the opponents of the base, Koh Jong-pyo, 47, an abalone fisherman, said: “They worry too much. Think what it could do for the local economy whenever an American aircraft carrier arrives with thousands of sailors and their cash.”

Definitely, keep your eye on this news and maybe even discuss it with some Korean people you know. I have yet to talk about it with JH but hope to do so in order to get a better understanding.

Joy in Jeju: Waterfalls

The sky opened up over the clouds when we caught our ferry back to Jeju from Udo. It was such a peaceful and eye catching sight that it made the day complete. Amongst the crowd I felt like the only one understanding the beauty before us.

The next day was the last full one before my trip back to Seoul. When we woke up in the morning the weather was lovely with an overcast of clouds. I knew Jeju was famous for waterfalls and so I figured why not make the trek out to one or two. Through my research prior to the trip I found one such waterfall area known as "Donnaeko Resort", which boasted dense forests and lovely streams. I packed a towel just in case and we were on our way.

 To get there we had to take a two hour long bus ride from our pension to the city of Seogwipo, where we transferred buses and were taken up the mountain.

The waterfall we were looking for is called, Wonang Pokpo Waterfall, and it wasn't too hard to find.

All one needed to do was follow this wooden path and soon enough you could hear the rushing of the water.

Although you could go swimming in the small pool I didn't opt for this as the water was kind of chilly. Even wading was a little difficult as there was no real flat area. But the spectacular view was satisfying enough, with the water rushing down, the shade of the trees and the sounds of nature.

While we were there an ahjusshi passed us buy, who spoke English, and remarked on how out of all the waterfalls on Jeju this one is the most quiet. What he meant was that it lacked the bunches of tourists. Since it was my first waterfall visit on Jeju I took his word for it because there were about a few people there. Most folks didn't even meander down to the pool and just stopped at the stairs, took a picture and went back.

If I lived on Jeju I would consider this as a beautiful local spot to go to if wanting to stay clear of the tourists. Below the waterfall were other pools where it sounded like families were having a good time.

On our way back to the bus stop we noticed a snake making its way up the mountain.

We made our way back to Seogwipo and were hungry for lunch. Not really knowing the area we rode the bus back a little longer to see what was around. We came to a "downtown" area and found a Mr. Pizza, which was satisfying.

After lunch we headed to another waterfall called, Cheonjiyeon. I am glad we made this as our last stop and not the first waterfall. Mostly because it was packed with tourists who were brought in by bus. In my opinion, avoid this during the peak season and head to the more secluded waterfalls.

As you travel around Jeju you will notice the following signs here and there, which are marking the Olleh trail.

This waterfall viewing wasn't free and we had to purchase tickets before entering. After you do so you cross a bridge and take the path up to the falls.

Yes this waterfall was beautiful but I couldn't really get a good clear look at it, nor enjoy the setting with all the hoards of people around.

After viewing the waterfall we headed back, meanwhile picking up some souvenirs at a few tourist shops. We then headed to the bus terminal and managed to get our way back to the pension.

The next day was rainy and cloudy so I didn't do anything before heading to the airport, except lounge with my friends in the pension cafe. So it is that we come to the end of my Jeju trip. I hope you enjoyed my photos and stories. I think if I am ever feeling a need to get away, but don't want to go too far, I feel I can come back to Jeju.

Joy in Jeju: Manjanggul

I woke up the next morning ready to go out and have my first adventure on the island. Jeju offers many varieties of things to see and do, and it is as if every part of the island has something on the map. You can choose from kitschy museums like the "Trick Art Museum" or the "Chocolate Museum", but I steered more towards the natural wonders of the island, since I feel this is what made Jeju a unique place to visit. One of these special natural artifacts are lava caves, especially the Manjanggul site.

I will get into the details later, but know that I was very excited for this as I have never been inside a lava-tube cave.

We started the journey crossing the bridge over into the next town to catch the bus.

We quickly learned that the buses on Jeju run a bit slower than their Seoul counterparts. Also, the bus schedule at the stop's shelter was a bit hard to figure out. There were numbers and a stop list, but when buses passed us by they lacked the matching number. Instead there were signs on the bus in Korean, and so I just read that to figure it out.

I didn't mind waiting for the bus, since it gave me time to rest and think about life and all that stuff. As we sat there a taxi drove up and asked us where we were going, and offered to give us a ride for 6,000 won. We declined, even though it was already an hour since we were there. The bus finally arrived and we were taken up to the Northeastern corner of the island where we found ourselves in front of the street entrance to the cave park.

We had some company, one Korean tourist and two gals from Malaysia. There was a bus that would take us up the road to the park, but they seemed to think it would be a short walk and so we followed them. The walk took about 35 minutes and many people in their rental cars passed us, but I actually enjoyed this part of the day.

I enjoyed it because we walked past farmland and a forest, and since living in Seoul I can't recall the last time I did that in Korea. On the walk we went past the Maze park.

Finally, we made it to the Manjanggul cave park, had a bite to eat and then headed towards the cave entrance.

Before I take you down into the cave let me tell you a little information and history about the site.

Scientific Background:

• Formed around 200,000 to 300,000 years ago due to lava flowing and forming tunnels. Keep in mind that this volcanic structure was formed underwater.
• It's unique because it has a high ceiling, which is rare amongst lava tubes. 
• Inside you can see different geological formations unique to lava tube caves. Such as as a lava raft, flow lines and stalactites.
• The length of the cave is 8km long or about 5 miles, but they only allow you to walk 1km of it's passage. 

Historical Background:

• Actually I have no information on the historical background of this lave tube cave. But I am very curious to know how the ancient people of Jeju island regarded this place. Did they think it as sacred or an auspicious place? I had a lot of questions like these at the site, but found very little information. 

As you can see the Manjanggul already sounds like an interesting place to visit, and definitely one worth putting on a check-list of places to go on the island. Did it live up to these expectations of fun and mystery? Let's see!

Exploring the Cave:

First of all remember that this is a tourist attraction and that you aren't going to be exploring this cave by yourself, but instead with hundreds of other curious folks. With that said you begin your descent into the cave making your way down some stone stairs making sure not to bump elbows with other people stopping in the middle to take photos. 

As you get lower and lower into the cave the air instantly turns cooler, which is said to be at 11 - 21 C or about 50 - 60 F. But given that the outside temperature was hot and humid this contrast definitely hits you and is quite refreshing. 

Immediately, you also realize that taking photos are going to be a challenge and it took me a while to figure out the best setting for it.

Once your fully inside the cave you really do become awe-struck. It is dark all around you except for lights along the path, and sounds are echoing and deep. As you meander, cold drops fall from the ceiling and don't mind splattering on your head or camera. 

Underneath you the path is not flat and smooth and on occasion you find yourself avoiding puddles of cold water. The people around you have their head up high looking at the ceiling and remarking on  its massive scale. 

Traveling through the cave you pass certain areas that are specially lit up to show certain features such as formations in the ceiling or flow lines along the wall.

I have to say I was very impressed with this cave and found myself enjoying taking photos and admiring the geology and structure. Indeed, this was a natural wonder that you knew formed a long time ago and in that regards it felt special to be walking through it.

I started to play around with long exposures on my camera...

The one above has me "floating" through it.

However, the longer I mingled through the cave stopping to take photos and experiment with the light the more I began to feel colder. The temperature dropped more as you got deeper into the cave, and my shirt and skirt didn't provide much cover.

Maybe the cold was getting to me as I found myself having fun taking long-exposure pictures of the lights.

But then the end of the cave approaches and you know it's time to go back.

The end of the tube is greeted by a fanciful lit up lava column, where everyone crams around to get their picture taken in front of it.

The journey back to exit the cave was swift as we were both too cold. Once out of the cave the warmth and humidity outside had us sweating, but certainly the chill of the cave felt good on my body. 

If you are going to Jeju I would highly recommend visiting the Manjanggul site, even though it is full of tourists. You still get to have your own unique experience and also can tell people you walked through a lava-tube, which I think is quite special. If you go bring along something with long sleeves just in case the coolness gets to you.