DMZ: Sobering Tour

After the look around Imjingak park it was time to board the bus that would take us to special locations around the DMZ.

Folks boarded the bus, mostly families and couples. There were a few Grandma and Grandpa types who when walked on the bus had a bright beaming smile on their faces. I wondered was this perhaps their first tour around the DMZ? Were they proud to be going on the trip? As I thought about this I watched as the bus filled up and noticed some folks brought along those transitory snacks, like roasted corn, for the ride. This puzzled me as I wondered why people would bring snacks to view something that symbolizes so much horror. I guess they figured they would finish it by the time they got to wherever we were going.

Really, however, getting on the bus meant I was going to get closer to the DMZ border and I didn't really know what we were going to see.

The bus was finally full of passengers and we took off. I noticed that at the front of the bus was a tourist group from China, since the group's interpreter sat facing them giving instructions and info in Chinese.

We got to a bridge checkpoint and waited in line, during which time I watched cars in the nearby lane. Some were allowed pass the checkpoint, while others made a U-Turn and went back. JH told me that if they didn't have authorization than they can't go forward. He said he tried a similar thing years ago just to get close enough by car.

The ery and intriguing part about the checkpoint were the armed guards. In all my life, besides one time being busted by cops with a group of friends in high school, have I been so close to guns. At that time the cops just had a gun secured on their belt while they questioned us. But at this time, I was close to heavy-duty guns. I am no fan of guns and am grateful Korea outlaws ownership. Certainly the sight of armed men and barbed wire set me up for the fact we were seeing a very secured space in Korea.

I talked about this with JH, how I feel around guns, and he seemed to understand. But we talked about how he knows how to use them since he already completed his mandatory army service. He even schmoozed a little bit over a certain type of gun that he was fond of when he was in training.

At the checkpoint an unarmed soldier came on board to check our ID's. Then once we got the okay the bus crossed the bridge, which was littered with blockades. The blockades were set up in a way that the bus had to maneuver in a zig-zag formation, and I guess the bus driver was use to it and probably had a bit of fun going through.

Once we crossed the bridge the bus traveled up a hillside heading towards the Dora Observatory.

Dora Observatory:

 I love this picture, because the little girl was staring at me while I took it and I also love the yellow color of the hangeul written on the pavement.

On the way up to the observatory the bus driver was talking to us (in Korean) about the place we were going. JH caught me up before we got off the bus, and so I figured that we were going to an observation deck where we can look out over the DMZ and North Korea. So as we disembarked the bus and made our way up to the platform I couldn't help but wonder what North Korea would look like.

Situated on top of Dorasan (Mount Dora, 37°54′53″N 126°42′31″E / 37.91472°N 126.70861°E / 37.91472; 126.70861), the observatory looks across the Demilitarized Zone. It is the part of South Korea closest to the North. Visitors can catch a rare glimpse of the reclusive North Korean state through binoculars from the 304 square feet, 500-person capacity observatory. They will be able to see the North Korean propaganda village situated in the DMZ, a remnant of the old prosperity of the North, and can see as far as the city of Kaesong.

Once you get to the viewing platform you are greated with a horizontal line of people looking out over the wall, while others look through binoculars. Walking up to the edge of the wall, to look out, I was overwhelmed. And then as I gazed out I couldn't help but take in the seeping desolate feeling of it all. For with the combination of the history, mist and undeveloped land that I saw before my eyes, the view was spooky and sad. This was a sobering moment for me as I realized the importance of the DMZ and its current state.

Because this border was created between the two Koreas the land that occupies this demarcation has been left untouch by developers. Thus a rich and thriving natural refuge exists for some rare and native species. This became extremely evident when I saw an eagle soar past us.

There were three of them and they were circling very close to the platform, probably spotting out something that had died down below. They came so close to us you could see their talons and beaks. An amazing sight to see at such a location.

 

From that experience we moved onto the building adjacent the observatory deck, where inside was a model that outlined what is in the view.

Before this I was taking a picture of the view when one of the soldiers came to me and said "NO PICTURES!". I immediately erased the picture. I wasn't the only fool to make this mistake as I saw others get caught. Apparently there was a line at which point past it you couldn't take photos. I know a few of you complain about my lawless photo taking so I chose this time to be a good girl. But it also frightened me and after this I took fewer photos of the places we went to. 

The 3rd Tunnel:

In a war if a wall is built and you can't go through it or over it the next logical step would to build tunnels that go under it. This was North Korea's plan at the time when both sides were giving peace talks. 

North Korea began digging tunnels under the DMZ at the same time that the South and the North first launched peace talks in 1974. According to intelligence analysis, it is believed that North Korea began digging the tunnels after Kim Il-sung (North Korea's President) issued the September 25 Combat Readiness Order in 1971. In this order, he stressed the need to dig tunnels under the Demilitarized Zone, saying that one tunnel would be more effective than 10 atomic bombs and would thus be the best means to overwhelm the heavily fortified front.

But the South were wary to the tunnel digging and over time discovered several tunnels. One of which was the 3rd tunnel which was available for touring.

We got on the bus again and headed to the location of the 3rd tunnel. After getting off we followed everyone to the tunnel's entrance building. Here we all sat and watched as a tour guide spoke about the tunnel's history and guidlines to viewing it. (In Korean). JH again filled me on what he said and what to expect. We lined up at the entrance and walking past some shelves grabbed a yellow hard hat and put it on.

The way one see's the third tunnel is by walking down a vertical shaft that links up with the actual cave-like tunnel that was created by the North Koreans. It is a steep decline down into the depths of the earth. If one were claustrophobic they would have a hard time with this. As one goes further down the air changes to that of a mineral rich type.

Soon enough you finish the vertical drop and come to a flat walking platform that you follow through the tunnel. Everything is lit up from ultra-bright lamps and walkway lights. You realize soon how handy the hard-hat is as the height of the tunnel narrows on just being 5ft tall, and in some places below that. As you walk through, following diligently the people in front of you, others pass by you on the left. It felt as if the tunnel had no end. Along the way are placards on the sides of the cave giving out pieces of information, both in Korean and English.

From reading the placards I learned that the tunnel was coated in charcoal to make it look like they were merely only mining. Other information included the demarcation of dynamite holes with yellow paint and other facts about the tunnel.

It penetrates 435 meters south of the Military Demarcation Line at a point 4 kilometers south of Panmunjeom, running through bedrock at a depth of about 73 meters below ground. Capable of moving a full division (plus their weapons) per hour, it was evidently designed for a surprise attack on Seoul. This tunnel is only 2 kilometers from a key outpost defending the Munsan corridor leading to Seoul.

Initial efforts to discover the tunnel failed until June 10, 1978, when an excavation hole was exploded, they started to dig a counter-tunnel which later reached the North's tunnel on October 17, 1978.

Finally, one comes to the end of the tunnel, which is really the blockade created by the South Korean army.  Basically the tunnel stops at a thick concrete wall with a tiny locked door on it. You look around and note from the sign that this is just one of three concrete blockades. To me it symbolized how strongly people want to prevent war and keep enemies out.

You turn around and head back to the exit / entrance shaft. I have to admit that I took in small amounts of pleasure from being inside the tunnel and it's exposed granite walls. Some small positive present from the war's creations. Yet at the same time I couldn't help but consider the hard work it must have been to create such a tunnel considering how hard a rock granite is. I only concluded that the North Koreans were very determined.

Heading back up the shaft I was out of breath when I got to the top. We joined up with the group and headed outside for some fresh air. At which point we saw people taking their picture with some statues and so decided to do the same.

We then meandered over to a building across the parking lot and walked inside. It turned out to be a theater where we watched a commemoration video about the DMZ. Turns out they had headphones one could use to listen to it in English. My experience of watching this video was that it was heavily laden with propaganda. Yet also laced with the message that the DMZ will be a symbol of peace in the future and also a nature preserve. One couldn't help but wish for the same thing.

Dorasan Station:

We got back on the bus and headed to another location, this time it was Dorasan train station. The bus driver made jokes about how all the buildings around the station are empty. It turns out the station is waiting to be used until there is peace between the nations. For a while there a few years ago freight trains went past the station but nowadays that is no longer happening. It is basically a place open to tourists, with a little souvenir shop inside. 

 

 

It was very squeeky clean inside and kind of gave off that "ghost town" vibe. Looking through a glass wall you could see the hopes of the station where a security check point is set up to check passengers and their baggage. The place was ready for the first signs of users but when that day will come...who knows?

DMZ Tofu: 

The last leg of the tour was a stop at a local tofu restaurant set up for tourists. It was the local tofu speciality that was fresh and came with fermented kimchi. It was very delicious and a natural and fresh way to digest all that one had seen on the tour.

  

 We got back to Imjingak park and went our separate ways. On the ride back home I was overwhelmed with thought and contemplation about everything I had seen and experienced. And now I can say with confidence that one should consider visiting the DMZ, learn about it's creation and hope for a brighter future.

Skate Parks in Korea

Coming from California, skateboarding is practically a way of transportation next to the bicycle. I never tried skateboarding but did favor inline skating when I was in middle school.

One might wonder if Korean people like skateboarding or have an interest. I think if you live here long enough you will end up at a park or open space where you do see kids skateboarding and even 20 somethings doing it.

Whether it is becoming a big trend or not it seems newer parks are building ramps for skateboarders and inline skaters.

As I was researching places to visit here in Yongin I came upon this blogsite dedicated to skate parks in Korea. I thought I would post it for general interest and also for those expat skateboarders out there. Here it is.

DMZ: Imjingak Park

 

As you know after I had lunch with JH's family I was told we were going to a park. It turned out to be Imjingak park which is a space directly near the DMZ. As I figured this out a grave feeling came over me. For in all my 1.5 years living in Korea I never considered visiting the DMZ.

It is not like I have overlooked the existence of it or disregard it's history is that I never really understood why people would want to go visit a place that represents so much horror and political strife. To me it seems surreal to treat a war-torn location as an amusement park. Yet, this is exactly, to some degree, how Imjinpark turned out to feel. In retrospect I am on the belief now that the park is more of a memorial with the goal of making peaceful thoughts in the minds of its visitors.

These days, it is possible to the vicinity of the DMZ. The DMZ reminds visitors of the tragedy of war, and causes them to talk about peace.

To add on to my surprise that I was going to visit the DMZ (we bought bus tickets for the tour that took us places very close to the DMZ) it was also a knock on the head that I was going to do it with JH's family.

I figured, however, to take this opportunity to share something special with JH and his family. When we arrived the winter air was cool and misty. We bought our bus tickets then took a tour around the facilities at the park. 

  

  

That picture of the ticket sign was taken after I came out of the bathroom. While I was in there JH's family bought tickets. It turns out, now that I have read the website, that foreigners needed to present their passports and make reservations in advance to take the bus tour. Somehow they managed to get past that and I got a ticket anyways.  However maybe we just took the "Lite" version of the choices of tours.

Because we drove there I want to post how one could get here by train. So just follow these directions:

10 minute walk from Imjingak Station of Gyeongui Line (For an admission of Dorasan Station, tourists must pass through a separate procedure.)

After we got our tickets we had time to use up before getting on the bus. We headed towards an observatory deck.

Below are the hand prints of Korean celebrities who I believe helped with the commemoration of this site. They were found along the walkway.

We walked up and up to the top where the observatory was.

At this point you can look out across the park and the Imjin river where you can also see the Freedom Bridge. 

The only bridge crossing Imjin River, and also the only one bridge connected between South and North Korea. The history says Since about 13,000 war captives crossed this bridge crying Hurrah for freedom, which gave bridge its name, "the bridge of freedom".

 Looking across the bridge you see the North Korean mountains near Kaesong. As I stood upon this platform and looked out into the distance I couldn't help but ponder about the people living beyond those hillsides.  "What were they doing?" "Were they suffering?" My thoughts seemed so useless considering that most people in North Korea are starving and probably freezing, while I stood there with my belly full of eel.

Yet the other visitors around me seemed nonchalant about this particular view. Maybe though the feeling was also a little solemn as they looked out through the binoculars.

 

 

JH shared with me information about the scenery and I talked to him about how it felt strange to be on this side of the border with all our privileges. He just seemed to laugh this off, which was the same response when I mentioned this feeling to his family. I thought it odd they would laugh when I was feeling concerned for the well being of the North Koreans. But I think they were just having a cultural moment of the "westerner" being odd. Yet it made me really want to know what was a South Korean's view of the state of North Koreans. Why did they visit the DMZ? To remember the tragedy? To believe that peace is possible? I couldn't help but wonder about all this as we made our way off the observatory deck.

That is a view of the Observatory building, which by the way had a Popeyes fastfood restaurant inside it, yet seemed like it was closed for Sunday.

JH liked the "J" in Imjingak so we got ourselves some snapshots.

We moved out to the memorial part of the park where several monuments were in place to commemorate both Korean and overseas soldiers who died and gave their service during the Korean War.

Within a circular area surrounded by flags from various nations (I suspect the nations that helped out..?) was a monument specifically for the US soldiers.

I found this to be very endearing and significant, since well because I'm American. But also because the park gave commemoration to many countries who lost their patriots to the war.

If you go back and read up on you DMZ history you will know that America played a very big role in creating it and also helping Korea defend itself from the North. 

Nearby the monuments was a little souvineer shop selling trinkets and of all things North Korean money and beer.

Going past this area one comes to the amusement park with typical carnival rides. We chuckled a little about how strange it was to have this nearby but we both remarked on how the park must be boring for kids.

Certainly it was an interesting contrast to see the colorful sites as opposed to the gray and serious colors coming from the monuments. In this sense color at this park denoted what was serious and what was playful.

 

Thrown together amusements parks, like this one, always seem to have a throwback style. The site seemed so vintage and quaint, which made it altogether more surreal.

 

 

 We came upon these contraptions that were meant to be used to view a little animation. What you see are binoculars you would put your face up to and speakers that would cup around your ears. These things certainly looked like a device from the past before one could carry cell phones around with video capabilities. I told JH how these are practically antiques and that I bet could be sold for a good sum on the American market. He laughed at this too! 

I was tempted to try one out but as I started to put a coin in the machine JH said, "No!" "They are just for show."

This ends the first part of my DMZ postings. In my next post I will show you the sites we saw on our bus tour. All in all, the experience was enlightening and spooky. 

Reader's Questions Answered

I don't like to show off but now and then readers of my blog send my way questions about life here and teaching. I try to do my best to answer honestly and to help them understand life out here.

One reader, a while back sent me some questions about public vs. private schools and so I thought I would post up my response. Here we go~

would you recommend newbies completely avoid [hagwons] them?
I don't think one has to completely avoid a Hagwon. Just be very picky and do a lot of research first. Also know the differences between a public school and a hagwon and ask yourself if you are willing to make those sacrifices. I know people who have worked at and are still working at hagwons and haven't had the same experience as me. Many have a pleasant time. Also you can work at hagwons that teach adults and so have a completely different experience. For a newbie you just need to know the challenges that lie ahead for either a public or private school. 

But are hogwans, in your opinion, to be avoided at all costs?
Not really. Some are run by very nice people. I know someone who is trying to develop her own hagwon school. Right now it is kind of small. Generally it comes down to these facts:
Hagwons = are a business. They will expect you to do a good job to keep the number of students at the school. If parents complain than you are going to be bothered a lot. 
Public school = run by the government, follows a repetitive schedule, more holidays, solid pay schedule etc. 

The similarities are:
Both mean you will be working with Koreans and the Korean system of doing things. You can't avoid that they lack the ability to give prompt notice. If you have read about it on my blog you would know that working with Koreans is a whole ball of wax that takes time to get use to. Some people have no problem adjusting. I just want to say that whether you work at a hagwon or public school you are still working with Korean people who typically function different from Western society.

Complaints about public school:
I had to think about this because well my complaints aren't that major I think. The one thing I would say is that the the Principal will make or break a public school. If he is very conservative and traditional than the people you work with will be scared of him. Doing things like using a personal heater might upset him so if he comes around you have to hide it. Again this points to Korean culture and what you have to get use to.

But really I don't have any major complaints. There are struggles now and then to make your lesson plans in time and full of good things but that is normal I think for a teaching job.

Update: I would say that you have to be cautious of your coteacher. They will be use to teaching in a certain style and may not be open to your suggestions or methods. Therefore in this case patience will be needed.


How do you like living in Gyeonggi rather then Seoul? Is there much of a foreigner community where you live now? Is it difficult to make friends?

I like living in Gyeonggi rather than Seoul because it has a suburban feel. Depending on the area it can be more quiet and quant. In Seoul everything is covered in concrete and parks are crammed in. Out here you can get to know your neighbors a bit more because you will typically see them more often. I just like the less stressed city feel out here. But living in Seoul offers more resources and fun things to do in my opinion. But if you live close enough it is easy to get there.

There are foreigners living in any major city and small major city. Usually they get together in their groups at bars or clubs. My friends and I are trying to start major communities so to make it better for all of us. It is not difficult to make friends. IF you work at a hagwon you get to know those folks. If you work at a public school you get to know people in the program. But you do meet a lot of new people and folks from around the world. It is a lot of fun.

Any other advice??
Sleep a lot when you first get here. It really helps battle jet lag. Also just try to relax and let yourself work out all the culture shock stuff. Give yourself time and eventually the things you love and hate about this place won't be that big of a deal.

Meet the Parents

This last Sunday I went to Paju with JH to meet his family for lunch. His family consists of his Mom, Father and Sister. I have already met his Mom and Sister, so this time I was going to meet them all at once. I was only nervous when JH told me a few weeks ago that he arranged this meeting. Since JH is a really fun and carefree guy I figured that his father is probably just as nice. 

However, in the back of my mind I couldn't help but remember what it was like when I met my ex's parents for a meal or at their house. I recall they were nice to me and said they liked me but underneath that they couldn't accept me as a long-term person for their son. In retrospect I understand their values and know that all in all it was interesting to meet a Korean family. But because of that experience I now have a tendency to slightly not believe whether or not my Korean boyfriend's parents like me enough to get past the cultural differences. 

I have talked to JH about this and he tells me I should not worry about it. He says his family is not really traditional and has an open mind. I can tell this is true in the openness I have received from his Mom. A few weeks ago she gave JH a big box of mandarin oranges to give to me along with some hand made tteok (rice cakes). If anything this is a sign I need to study Korean more seriously.

So it was on Sunday that we went to Paju (a city Northwest of Seoul very close to the DMZ) to eat a specialty lunch of grilled eel. Here is a link to a Korean review of the restaurant for those who can read Korean and would like to know how to get there.

JH and his family know I don't eat seafood but they really wanted to go to this place. I compromised by saying I would be okay since sometimes I eat the grilled eel on sushi. Besides I knew I didn't really have a say in this and should just keep my head down and go along for the ride.

 

We went off the highway and made our way through narrow countryside roads. Earlier on Saturday I had bought his family one of those lotion hand sets and so was wondering when and how I was going to give it to them.

My mind cleared as we got out of the car and I met his father for the first time. I could tell he was a nice guy and definitely the complete opposite of my ex's. For my ex's dad was the very traditional family man type who kept quiet at meals. My impression of JH's Dad is that he is a fun Ahjusshi. Let me just give you this image: His hair was short and permed curly (I don't know if it was natural... but something tells me he isn't). He had gold rings like a disco star on his fingers and a gold Rolex watch to match. He dressed casually and drove an SUV with a Buddhist figurine dangling from the mirror. 

Needless to say I was amused by his image and curious about his character. 

We went inside and were seated where JH helped translate questions and answers. I didn't feel uncomfortable at all but a bit ashamed that my Korean is still so low after so long being here. 

Here is JH's sister ~ she is very nice and I am older than her so I am her "Unni".

This restaurant was packed with customers, which was a sight to see considering we were deep in the countryside. The staff brought in the tables by carrying them with all the dishes on it and placing it before us. Then a little while longer the freshly barbecued eel was brought to the table.

 

You might be thinking "Eel....ewwwww". And yes the sound of eating eel is foreign to a westerner not accustomed with such sea creature. All I was scared of was whether they would have live eels in the front of the restaurant swimming around. I would have felt bad to eat the eel having known it was freshly killed earlier. However, many folks out there find this fun and thrilling.

The barbecued eel was very delicious. The sauce they put on it made the eel very tasty. Also there was freshly cut ginger on the table to sample while eating the eel. I found this very helpful when sometimes a bite was too...well..eel-ish. 

We enjoyed eating and I exchanged stories about America that were funny and enlightening. After we finished eating they served us tea and coffee and we relaxed for a while. Then it was time to take off. I was told we were going to a park but I didn't expect it to be someplace very special. I will tell you more about this in an upcoming post. 

 

The style of the restaurant was based upon the hanok, where for example we ate in a room with sliding doors around us. They had outdoor seating which I can imagine would be fun in the spring or summer.

 

We headed to the cars to get ready to go to the next place. At this point I took out the gift and handed it to his family. They seemed surprised and grateful. JH tried to convince me I didn't need to give them a gift but I felt it was rude to go to a meeting and be empty handed. Plus his father paid for the meal. 

So check in later on as I will update about the special place we went to next. Also as soon as JH can give me the name of the restaurant I will add it to this post.